Dec 2, 2014

New name, new opportunities: Olive Green!

We have been writing this blog under the name of Olive Green Window for about 2.5 years. Somewhere along the way an idea was born: perhaps one day we'd expand a bit, go beyond just blogging. But evolution takes time, and we did not want to rush things.

During the past two years, it has been a pleasant surprise to see a solid growth in the number of viewers. Opportunities for different collaborations have also appeared. Certain services have also been identified where Pekka's expertise could be valuable to an MCM enthusiast or a DIY soul.

So we decided to start a small business. Naturally, the name would reflect what we have already been doing, so an obvious choice was to name the business after the blog. Unfortunately, to avoid confusion with another local business, we could not choose Olive Green Window.

After a bit of thinking, the decision was to drop the word "window", and go with a simple solution - "Olive Green". Thus the name of the blog will soon be changed to Olive Green, but everything else - the writers, the content and the other key characters, including Urho, will remain the same.

Dear readers, we ever so kindly thank you for your continuous interest, and hope you keep on enjoying what we have to offer!


Minna & Pekka

Nov 18, 2014

Heads up: For sale!

For all of you who adore Scandinavian Modernist architecture, here is an intriguing opportunity! One of the ten units in our apartment building will be soon for sale. The apartment is located in the west end of the complex, and as an additional bonus has a window facing west and an additional skylight.

The photos are a courtesy of the realtor, Huoneistokeskus and are published upon request of the seller, a former architect, who wishes to find new owners who appreciate the modernist architecture and mid-century spirit of the apartment.

Nov 10, 2014

Urho the birthday dog

It was a double celebration in our family yesterday. First, it was the National Father's Day, Pekka's third. More importantly, it was also Urho's fourth birthday. Thus it now seems appropriate to let His Sausageness to tell a bit of his special day.

"Just like today, I love sleeping in. As long as it is warm and no one moves my blankets I don't really care about anything else. Especially if it is raining. If I can hear the rain drops, there is no way I will react unless I have to."

Yes, he is there!

" I right or is there something going on I should be aware of? This smell is somehow familiar...yes, it is bacon! And if I interpret the not so very subdued sounds of a two year old helping to prepare a surprise Father's day breakfast, I think I may have a chance to score my share." 

Driven by the scent of bacon

"Too bad, no luck with bacon this time. But let's check out what is happening outside instead. Still not quite comfortable with these funky stairs. They should install some kind of a special ramp for us sausages."

Equally careful progression

"This is the far frontier of my territory. Fortunately it is not too cold. How boring, though, that due to these autumn related cleaning activities neither of my wing persons is available for a bit of exploration. Pity, I think I might have smelled another dog nearby. Or a rabbit. Not quite sure."

Alert as always

"I don't really get what they are doing running up and down the hill, probably it has something to do with these leaves. Whatever it is, I'm quite enjoying the ride in a padded wheelbarrow."

Convenient downhill travelling

"For a dachshund I think I'm pretty skilled in striking a pose (incentives need to be attractive, of course). Naturally I'm quite handsome, but that I manage to look intelligent and brave as well. After all, I have four years of experience of doing the traditional birthday shoot."

The Official Birthday Photo

"We shoot a couple of other options as well, none of those quite as flattering to my figure as the photo above. However I fully recognise some humans just can't get enough of us dachshunds, and thus I gave my permission to publish them all."

"Eventually, enough was enough. After all, it was getting a bit chilly and damp so it was time to go back inside. And there had been some rumours of a special birthday treat including frankfurters..."

Are we ready yet?

"And yes, there it was. Not much of a visual masterpiece, but who cares - the rumour regarding the frankfurters was true! Aah, simple pleasures of life are very much appreciated!"

Just say the word...!

Nov 7, 2014

Early Edition 670 & 671, Part II

This post actually belongs to a series of updates dealing with a restoration of an early series 670 & 671, or better know as the Eames Lounge chair. The "series" might sound a bit of an overstatement as as the last related story was released almost one year ago...yes, point taken - we really need to shape up a bit! Anyhow, if you want to revisit the earlier parts you can find them here: 1 & 2.

So, back to the key character of the story - The Chair. After the initial assembly and first inspection (the chair had been disassembled for transportation) it was evident it needed to be disassembled again and work on the separate components should begin.

The frame

The first thing to do was to remove the cushions. It was easy to just unclip and slide them off the panels. Then off came the armrests, which are fixed in place with three screws in this early model. Later models have only two screws attaching the armrests to the metal brackets.

Early armrests with three screws

Next, the metal brackets on both sides of the chair fixing the backrest to the rest of the assembly were separated by removing four screws. When loosening the screws one should be very careful as the weight of the backrest starts quickly forcing the backrest down and if not supported properly, the wooden parts can easily break. Subsequently, the two backrest panels were separated from each other.

Armrest metal bracket

After the rosewood seat and backrest panels were taken apart from each other the die casted aluminum base was detached from the seat and ottoman panels. This was done by loosening four screws. 

Ottoman base

Once the chair was fully disassembled to individual components its dirtiness was even more evident. The entire structure was covered with years of dirt combined with a suspicious mix of old surface treatments. Additionally, the wood panels were very dry and desperately screaming for some oil.

Rosewood seat panel

Before the wood could be retreated with oil it was important to wash the panels throughly. A good approach is to use steel wool together with some sort of cleansing liquid. Pekka used a commercial cleansing liquid made specifically for furniture (there are several brands available to choose from). Alternatively, you could also choose to use methylated spirit or mineral spirits for cleaning. Whatever your preference, it is important first to try it on an area which is not visible to the eye, such as an area covered by a cushion. It is also good to do the cleaning in a well ventilated area or even outside as the evaporating fumes will make your head hurt if working in a closed, small space.

Seat panel - before

Pay attention when using steel wool on veneer. Rub it only to the direction of the grain, otherwise you might scratch the wood and leave unwanted marks. Be also careful when working on the areas where brand labels are located as you don't want to damage them either.

Use clean rags or household towels once you start rubbing the wood with cleansing liquid. As soon as the dirt starts coming off the panels do not smear it all over the panel, but rather wipe it off with a clean rag. Next, add more fresh cleansing liquid to the steel wool and repeat the same procedure to the rest of the panel.

Working with steel wool

After the panels are clean and dry it was time to start the most rewarding part of the restoration: applying the oil. Again, patience is a virtue: the oil can't be applied on a wet wood, ever. Depending on the ambient conditions and preferrer cleansing liquid with you may need to wait for a few hours or even to the next day just to be sure all the liquid have evaporated from the surface to be treated.

Panel-oil and a dachshund's snout

There are several types of oils to choose from. Some brand names indicate what the product actually contains (such as pure tung oil) and others are just names (such as tung oil finish) created by marketeers and might have little or nothing to do with the actual oil composition. The content of these products usually varies being usually a blend of some sort of oil, varnish and hardener, and perhaps not be the best choice for a vintage chair. Whichever oil you choose make sure you know how it will behaves on the surface to be treated, just to avoid any unpleasant surprises. Originally, Herman Miller used gun stock oil - so take a wild guess what Pekka chose for our chair?

Half washed, half oiled

After careful cleaning and treating, it is certainly a pleasure to see how the oil gives richness to the wood tones and really makes the grain pop. Yes, freshly oiled Rio palisander is indeed one of the prettiest sights we know!

Freshly oiled rosewood

In the next part of the series (promised, it will not take another year) we will show what happened to the base, domes of silence and the shock mounts. So please stay tuned!

Nov 2, 2014

DIY acoustic slat wall

So, it's been a long while. It seems that we are currently in a midst of a period when there are so many different things ongoing simultaneously that in the end it seems extremely difficult to find the appropriate time for...well, basically anything. But better late than never - now we are back and quite exited to share with you our experiences on how to construct an acoustic slat wall!

Half way there

For the last two moths, as boring and slow it might sound, Pekka has been sanding and oiling teak slats made of material sourced from The bunker has proven to be an absolute necessity allowing the isolation of this kind of smelly and dusty work, which when for example left to dry does not conflict with everyday life. To date,  nearly half of the wall is ready, the other half waiting to be finished before the first week of December when the electrical work including the indirect lighting of the slat wall will be finished.

Never ending row of teak slats

We also needed close to 15 square meters of acoustic panels for the slat wall, and as a result of some research work, found an excellent material provider option from Finland: Konto. Especially here in Finland Konto is recognized for its innovative acoustic products made mainly of peat moss. Specifically, we would like to thank Sami Laitila from the Konto Team for is expertise and kind customer service. If you have any needs regarding acoustic panels, do not hesitate to contact Sami!

Twenty acoustic panels and a non-acoustic dacshund

There are several reasons why we ended up choosing Konto. First, we preferred a Finnish product with solid acoustic capabilities minimizing the echo created by the slate floor. Second, the Konto panel works exceptionally well in the slat wall sandwich structure Pekka created. The panels are rigid enough not to squeeze together too much, and they have a tough outer surface that will not break easily. Third, as the panels are mainly made of peat moss it is a sustainable product matching our renovation philosophy.

Beautiful surface texture of Konto acoustic panel 

Konto acoustic panels are also very easy to resize with a stanley knife. Afterwards, a cut panel edge  can be "re-closed" with  heat for example using a flat iron. After this, the edge can be painted, leaving no visible cues of previous modifications. Pekka needed to do some detailed cutting for a vent that is located at the top part of the wall. He also sliced a very thin, round piece of the panel in order to clue it on the top of the vent lid. This enables unification of the surface texture with the rest of the wall. Now the only missing part is a slat hatch.

Missing a slat hatch

Other important piece what was needed for the wall is a ten meter LED stripe, which will be a light source for an indirect wall light. We found the components from Adlux (highly recommended material provider). There were two important considerations. First, these LEDs provide a light with a color temperature of 5500K, which is very close to the day light color temperature. This kind of lighting conditions compliment the surrounding colors in the best possible way. Second, these LEDs can be dimmed, which we considered very important to be able to adjust the amount of light to match the different uses of the space.

Ten meters of LED

Next to the construction of the slat wall. First, an acoustic panels is "squeezed" between teak slats (in front) and a board of plywood (on the back), creating a sandwich structure. All these three elements are then attached together with screws from behind.

Sandwich structure
The wall itself is also modular. The width of each module was determined by the width of Konto panels (594 mm). Pekka started building the modules with a sheet of plywood and then adding an acoustic panel on top.

Ready for the slats

Then he placed the teak slats prepared with love and patience on top of the plywood-panel base.

Each module requires 18 teak slats

The idea was to have a fixed space between each slat leaving the black acoustic panel partly visible on the back. This was achieved by using pieces of wood as spacers allowing Pekka to control the gaps between slats while completing the screwing phase.

Slats & spacers

Pekka had also pre-clued stripes of printed paper to the back of each plywood element. These stripes helped to determine the screw marks with precision allowing easy assembling.

Crosses marking the spot
Slats & gaps
Once each module was completed, the next step was to attach it up on the wall with screws. Leaving an empty slat space to each end of the module enabled fixing the modules with screws from front up to the wall. Later, single slats will be glued to cover the empty spaces, hiding the screw heads and creating an illusion of a perfectly screwless entity.

Fixing gap on side of the module

On the very bottom we left a small space between the slats and the slate floor, which determined by the choice of material is a bit uneven. This appeals to us visually, as the slight unevenness is not so noticeable, but it also has a functional aspect. We will be using the space to hide electrical wires etc. behind a black hatch made of Konto material. 

Once again, even if it is an extremely slow process where counting the working hours makes absolutely no sense, we are really happy to see how the finished half of the slat wall looks, and can't wait to share the rest of the story with you!

To be continued

Sep 21, 2014

Slate floor - check!

We are very happy to announce that the downstairs slate floor is ready including everything from the floor heating to the protective coating. And what's better - all systems tested and working perfectly! Naturally, we are very pleased as the process has been exahaustingly long and extremely dusty. But in the end, the outcome matches the vision quite well.

However, the lounge area still misses a few "minor" details such as the teak slat wall and its indirect lighting, finalization of the electrical work, central heating radiator, three inside- and one outside doors, window, lights, furniture, rug and appliances. And no, we have paid absolutely no attention to the downstairs quest room at this point.

Slate floor, completed! 

Back to the floor itself. One of the most labor intensive phases in the installation was to give floor the appropriate final finish, basically meaning sanding. This is actually something which is not an absolute must, and thus not something everyone might choose to do, but we felt that it was crucially important as we wanted to get rid of all the edges in the rock and smooth out the surface of the filler in between.

Sanding in a dust cloud

This didn't however mean we wanted to remove the texture of the slate. Quite the opposite. The texture was something that we wanted to keep, as together with the color and form factor, it is one of the key characteristics why we originally chose this type of slate in the first place. So the purpose of sanding was to remove the sharpness from the rock. When walking bare foot some roughness and variation is fine, but sharpness is certainly an unwanted feature.

Texture retained

Once the floor had been sanded with a big machine Pekka insisted on doing another round manually. Rock after rock he went through the entire floor ensuring that the smoothness of both the slate and filler was at an acceptable level and the graphical sharpness between the filler and slate was crisp.

Sanding by hand

The tool Pekka used for the manual work was a little sander by Bosch. It worked perfectly, as with 80 grit paper it managed to attack both slate and filler just with the right force. Well, the motor did break half way through the process, but the guarantee took care of it, after which he was able to successfully finish the job.

Pekka's little helper

All in all we are very happy with the outcome regarding the slate floor. Once more, a big hand for Liuskemestarit who provided the material and took care of the installation. We will return to them next summer when we continue the never ending downstairs / backyard story and start the garden work including the construction of a 45 square meter slate terrace on the back of the apartment.

All set!

Currently, downstairs provides a place for certain pieces of furniture that have been either stored away ever since we moved in two years ago or have been used upstairs earlier. Actually, some of these pieces are fore sale so if you are interested please visit the market to take a look. Perhaps one of these MCM pieces has your name on it! 

Temporary downstairs furniture

Of course, Pekka has already developed an interior concept for the downstairs lounge layout including furniture and lights. As soon as he will find the time, he is thinking of shooting a few renderings in order to visualize the idea for all of you. But no rush. One thing at the time...

Sep 20, 2014

Teak slats

If you have been following the teak slat wall saga, we have some news! Since last winter the planks have been stored in a pile in the darkness of the bunker, but now finally the time has come to move forward with the project! (And if you have no idea what we are taking about please review the previous posts: 1, 2, 3.)

Again, the job was to be done in the same place than last time, the architectural wood workshop of Aalto University located close to our home.  But at the brink of the very first cut, Pekka found himself hesitating. Even if he had given some serious thought for the design, when about to slice the first perfectly beautiful, massive plank of teak his mind started to wonder: "Should I reconsider the final design once more? If I make this cut I have passed the point of no return..."

The first set ready to be processed

After these fleeting moments of hesitation, when the very final decision was made, he was ready to roll. The first thing was to push the planks through a thickness planer in order to gain geometric purity. This was followed by processing the planks with first a jointer, then a circular saw and eventually once more a thickness planer. Overall, this stage took about two working days.

Coming through!

One plank ready for jointer

Based on our calculations we needed somewhere around 160 slats to cover the 5.5 meter wall downstairs. However, to have a possibility to choose between different pieces at the installation stage, altogether around 200 slats we made. This required slicing of 21 planks of beautiful teak to slats with predetermined cross section dimensions of 22 x 30 mm.

Exactly 200 pieces

Even though the slats were planed in the previous step their edges still remained sharp. Therefore, all of them needed to be hand sanded with a 240 grit sand paper to the direction of the grain. Based on the his experimental observations Pekka had made earlier this was an adequate smoothness for this stage. After sanding, the slats were cleaned with pressured air in order to get rid or all the dust particles. Only after this, they could be treated with oil and turpentine mixture.

50% Tung oil - 50% Turpentine

The first set of 20 slats has now been treated with a mixture of Tung oil and turpentine for the first time. An unavoidable side effect is of course a horrible smell of turpentine invading also upstairs (oh well, at least it is not construction dust which would mean an extra round with a vacuum cleaner). Once the slats have dried they will be rubbed with steel wool and retreated with a few layers of pure Tung oil. The most crucial thing here is to be patient in order to allow sufficient drying time for Tung oil. But it certainly will pay off, as one day all this extensive processing will result in a stunning teak slat wall inspired by the MCM era. Great!

20 out of 200

We have also made a decision regarding the actual construction of the wall. It will be a sandwich construction of nine modules, consisting of teak slats in front, acoustic panels in the middle, backed up by sheets of plywood on the very back. This allows us to attach the slats in place with screws from behind, leaving the screw heads invisible to the eye. We have also made some research regarding the acoustic panels and have managed to find an excellent material provider from Finland. More about this very soon!

Teak slats